Best time of year to visit
Mid-April through early June is the sweet spot. The trade winds are steady, the humidity hasn't fully arrived, hurricane season hasn't started, and prices drop hard the week after Easter. December through March is gorgeous too — and the most expensive.
When the crowds thin out
Late April through May is the quietest stretch of the dry season. The first two weeks of December (before holiday travelers land) are also surprisingly open. Avoid Holy Week and Three Kings Day if crowds bother you.
What you'll eat and drink
Mofongo — fried green plantains mashed with garlic, olive oil and pork — is the dish you came for. Lechón asado from a roadside spit in Guavate is worth the drive. Order tostones, fresh tropical fruit, and a Medalla light at the beach. The piña colada was invented in San Juan (the Caribe Hilton and Barrachina both claim it — try one at each). For rum, skip Bacardi and try Don Q and Ron del Barrilito, the local pours.
The vibe
Old San Juan is cobblestone streets, 500-year-old forts, pastel colonial facades, and salsa drifting out of bars at 11 p.m. Rincón on the west coast is a laid-back surf town with sunset bars and a slow pace. El Yunque, just an hour outside San Juan, is the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. Forest Service system — waterfalls, coquí frogs, and an easy day trip. Puerto Rico does both polished and untamed, often on the same day.
Who it's best for
Couples who want a city + beach mix, first-time international-feeling travelers who don't want the international part, foodies, and anyone who'd rather hear salsa at dinner than a resort cover band.